
Those underestimated fishing boats
Jack Spillane, New Bedford Standard-Times
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The view from the new Waterfront Grille.
Andrew T. Gallagher
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So 28 years ago this summer, a guy named Biff MacLean
threw a big party on the New Bedford waterfront for a
guy named Ted Kennedy who was running for president at
the time.
As 85-year-old local politico Sylvester Sylvia remembers
it, Ted's campaign against then-President Jimmy Carter
was going badly.
Now, I'll bet that Biff wasn't a natural Kennedy fan but
he nevertheless came to his aid. Local pork is local
pork, I suppose, and Ted Kennedy is a Massachusetts guy.
"He realized the senator was in deep trouble
politically, and he needed money," said Sylvester, who
has been the Kennedy family's point man in New Bedford
for half a century.
"He threw a party, a fundraiser, a very successful
fundraiser. ... The place was packed."
That waterfront hot spot that was packed for Biff
MacLean and Ted Kennedy 28 years ago was called Louie's
on the Wharf.
But Louie's and its troubled successor, Twin Piers, have
been gone from the New Bedford waterfront for 14 years
now. Some say they were the victims of the decadent '80s
culture and/or the bad economy of the early '90s.
But Thursday night, more than a little of the luster of
Louie's during its heyday returned to the waterfront,
and right on the same spot where Louie's once hopped.
Kevin Santos opened his impressive new restaurant, the
Waterfront Grille, and once again, a dockside hot spot
with spectacular views of the fishing fleet was packed
with people.
And I mean hundreds of them.
All of the SouthCoast glitterati seemed to be there, and
the party that Mr. Santos threw was more than worthy of
succeeding one of Biff's big times.
The new eatery — with terraced, hardwood floors,
floor-to-ceiling windows, patio deck and sushi bar , and
all within a fish toss of the boats — is the kind of
place that makes you feel you're at the heart of it all.
As Gertrude Stein would say, "There's definitely there
there."
It didn't hurt, of course, that the food for the
Waterfront Grille bash was free for the night — that
definitely made the booze lines longer and the party
atmosphere happier.
Mr. Santos, a successful developer in his previous
incarnations, is betting that hundreds of folks who
received his opening-night invitations had a swell
enough time that they'll want to come back and bring
their friends and relatives.
They ought to.
The scallops, shrimp and salmon on Thursday were like
the loaves and fishes, constantly replenishing, and
cooked all night long with a contemporary flair worthy
of Bobby Flay.
In the tough economy we're entering I hope Kevin Santos
is successful. He strikes me as a guy who knows what
he's doing, but time will tell.
"As long as the food stays good, really good quality,
and the price is right, I think it will go very well,"
he told me.
Ward 3 City Councilor Kathy Dehner, a real estate
developer who knows a little something about investing
in the New Bedford downtown, pronounced herself
impressed.
Kevin didn't cut any corners; everything was top of the
line.
"It's such a good feeling that somebody believes that
much in New Bedford to invest like this. I'm very proud
of him," she said.
This latest incarnation of Louie's brings back a public
use of the city's working waterfront.
Unlike more precious spots like Newport, it's the
working waterfront that charms in New Bedford. Because
without the fishing boats, a waterfront is only another
pretty harbor.
Mayor Scott Lang says New Bedford's historic asset has
always been its waterfront. But since the demise of Twin
Piers — not to mention the construction of the
high-speed Route 18 — the people and the water have been
separate.
"So the idea that now we can have people who come down,
dine right in the center of the city, on the waterfront,
see the most unbelievable views of the biggest fishing
fleet in the country, is very, very important," he said.
The mayor was repeating, of course, the city's mantra
about knitting the waterfront and downtown back together
for the umpteenth time. But I'll let him give it one
more ride.
And if the planned hotel across the street really gets
off the ground, maybe all the years of talk about a New
Bedford seaport about to turn the corner will finally
come true.
Looking out at those boats from Kevin Santos' place this
past Thursday, people were talking about how close by
they were, how terrific they looked.
"This is New Bedford Americana," Sylvester Sylvia said.
"You know the worth of the ships, the boats that are out
there, we underestimate all this, don't we?"
Contact Jack Spillane at
jspillane@s-t.com
July 28, 2008
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